Your Lengthy Sightseeing Guide to Leuven, Belgium

7.2K

How the city of Leuven isn’t a bigger deal in Belgium is beyond me! This small city in the region of Flanders is simply full to the brim with stellar attractions. I honestly think it stands toe-to-toe with Belgium’s better-known destinations like Bruges and Ghent. Visiting Leuven, you’ll find it offers a distinctive UNESCO site, one of the most remarkable libraries I’ve visited, and a hearty beer culture to boot. What more could you possibly need?

Part of what puzzles me is that the city lies just outside the national capital of Brussels. As such, it’s super easy to visit Leuven as a day trip from there. I was coming from farther away in Ghent and found it remarkably simple, much like most trips around Flanders. The only feasible answer then is that people simply haven’t heard of the city yet. So to remedy that, here’s everything you should know and all the things to do in Leuven, Belgium.

 

The city of Leuven

Before we get to the sightseeing in Leuven, first a little on the city itself. Leuven is the capital of the Flemish Brabant province near the centre of Belgium. As I said before, the city is super close to Brussels, sitting just 20 kilometres from the nation’s capital.

This makes it much closer than other popular day trips like Ghent or Antwerp. Now, it may not be one of Belgium’s biggest cities with only 100,000 residents, but it makes up for its size with a world-class university and major beer brewing pedigree.

 

History of the University Library

When it comes to the attractions of Leuven, I feel compelled to start with the magnificent University Library.

Even though the city has plenty of wonderful architectural landmarks, to me the library is the pinnacle of Leuven’s great catalogue. It really wasn’t until the founding of the university that Leuven made a name for itself. Skip further down if you don’t feel like a history lesson right now.

For centuries, the university played a crucial role in Leuven’s development and was considered its crowning jewel. In fact, thanks to the library, for a time Leuven was dubbed the “Oxford of Belgium“. Sadly, though, in August of 1914, invading Germans set the library alight in retaliation for supposed local sniper attacks.

The attack came after they had taken the city, but also after German soldiers accidentally fired upon one another. Thus, “local insurgents” became the scapegoats for German failures.

The unwarranted punishment of the library resulted in over 2000 buildings being destroyed and 248 casualties. While the devastation to the people and buildings was felt, what garnered equal outcry was the loss of 300,000 volumes of books from the library.

Without skipping a beat, communities began collecting money and books to support the library, even during the war. One of the many reparations that Germany had to make following their defeat in World War I was the provision of books worth 13 million marks.

And yet, it wasn’t until America stepped in, offering to build Belgium a new library, that the university had somewhere to put all these resources. Sadly, the library burned down again near the start of WWII, as it was seen as a war memorial to Germany’s previous defeat. Again, once the war had ceased, the city rebuilt the library.

 

Visiting the Leuven University Library

Besides the fascinating history, what makes visiting the library so remarkable is the incredible craftsmanship that went into it.

Simply looking around the main reading hall with all of its distinctive woodwork, you can’t help but be in awe at the skill and execution. As you wind your way up its staircases, past the carved animal banisters to its many nooks and crannies, I’m sure you’ll have found a new favourite library here.

Moving on, within the building’s tower, you’ll find a museum that explains the history of the library’s destruction and reconstruction as you wind your way up. The museum visit ends with the outdoor viewing area at the top of the tower.

There, you earn what must be the best views of Leuven that are possible. Entry to the University Library, including access to the tower, costs 7€. Ultimately, I think this is a highlight of the things to see in Leuven and why it’s first up. 

 

The Totem

Situated on a large square in the centre of the city, the library dominates the place and arrests your attention as soon as you see it. The only reason you may look away is to stare in wonder at the Totem, a 23-metre-high art installation of a jewelled beetle impaled upon a needle.

For a city that feels quite traditional and historic, the Totem literally stands out. To me, the installation treads the line between frankly bizarre and endearingly cute.

 

A university city

As mentioned above, Leuven is a highly university-oriented city and one of the finest in the country. The university has over 50,000 students across its campuses and a history dating back to its founding in 1425. Scattered throughout the city centre are several historic colleges, many from the 16th century.

Walking around the city, you can see the beautiful architecture of the many colleges and visit courtyards like the above in Pope’s College. The moniker of Belgium’s Oxford certainly becomes believable after seeing a few of its colleges and the architecture here.

 

The Fonske Statue

I was warned that I might feel old among the largely student population, but that turned out to be a bit of an exaggeration. Sure, Leuven certainly has the feeling of a student city, but that certainly doesn’t define it. One statue, though, that reflects the student side of Leuven, is the Fonske Statue.

Standing off the main square, the statue shows a university student reading a book, letting wisdom from the glass above pour into his head. A nice idea, no?

 

Grote Markt

Having covered all the university elements, let’s get to the other main places to visit in Leuven. Which of course means starting with the main square, as is often the case in Europe, or when exploring the best cities in Flanders, like Leuven. The Grote Markt has been the throbbing heart of Leuven since the 14th century and is home to some stunning city landmarks.

While a historic part of the city, the square has undergone a few modern adjustments, including becoming a car-free zone, not to mention the visually interesting staircase that digs down to an underpass. Except for its major landmarks, the square is home to plenty of cafes and taverns, and is just a pleasant area in general.

Of all the landmarks found around the Grote Markt, none is quite as striking as the city’s Town Hall. Built in 1439, this elaborate Gothic building bears intricate carvings on its exterior and six-pointed spires. All told, there are 236 statues displayed in detail, local figures of Leuven throughout the ages.

The town hall interior, including its upper halls, is said to be quite remarkable. Had I not had conflicting tours, I would have loved to have gone inside. You can join a guided tour of the Town Hall every day from 3pm for only 4€.

Further flaunting Leuven’s gothic pedigree is the Tafelrond building, sitting opposite St Pieters Church on the Grote Markt. The building has housed a number of different organisations and businesses throughout its history, but today it contains a restaurant and hotel.

Regardless of what is inside, you can easily appreciate its gothic wonder as you walk through the phenomenal Grote Markt.

 

St. Pieters Church

The third of the admirable Gothic buildings to sit upon the Grote Markt is the St Pieters Church.

Construction of the church started in the 15th century, and technically, it remains unfinished, thanks to its towers. Regardless, it does look quite grand, especially with its other Gothic neighbours.

It also happens to possess one of Belgium’s many UNESCO-listed belfries. The nave of the church is decorated with elegant, white stonework and hosts a wonderfully detailed Gothic tabernacle.

The big draw of St Pieters Church, though, is its opulent treasury. Inside, you’ll find plenty of reliquary statues as well, carved wooden icons, and a beautifully engraved chest.

The church’s prized possession is its ‘The Last Supper” painting by Dirk Bouts, which is still hanging where it was originally intended and is the only one by a Flemish Primitive to still do so.

My visit to the church’s treasury was unfortunately rushed, as I had to leave immediately after lunch to attend the 3pm tour at the Stella Artois Brewery. In hindsight, I would have allowed quite a bit more time.

While entry to the church is free, the treasury costs 3€ to visit.

 

Oude Markt

There are two vastly different reasons to visit Leuven’s Oude Markt Square. Either you are after some sensational Flemish Renaissance houses, or you just want to go to the pub! The Oude Markt is one long square, lined with gorgeous traditional architecture, that just so happens to house pubs, cafes, and bars.

The square has been home to the city’s markets since the 12th century, but today its true focus is the 42 bars that surround what feels like one great big terrace. It’s often described as Europe’s longest bar!

As a university city, you can imagine this square is the lively heart of student life after class has finished. Nothing said that like the sheer stillness and quiet I experienced walking through there on a Saturday morning, as outdoor chairs and tables began to be set up.

 

M-Museum Leuven

One of the recommendations of what to do in Leuven that popped up several times before my visit was the M-Museum.

The museum is said to have a superb collection of artwork ranging from rare historic pieces to more contemporary pieces. Beyond its permanent exhibits, there are plenty of temporary exhibits, including everything from sculpture to photography and film to architecture.

Unfortunately, the M-Museum was temporarily closed for refurbishment during my trip to Leuven. Still, just by looking at the museum’s exterior, I was able to get an idea of the mixture of its historic and contemporary influences.

Its design includes a rather neo-classical front facade and entry connected to a modern geometric design, and is likely to grab your attention all on its own.

 

Coffee in Leuven

After my first few attractions, I decided to stop in for a coffee at one of the dozens of cafes in Leuven that had been recommended to me, many of which are found on Parijsstraat. This particular cafe had appeared on both of my lists, and with a name like Koffie Onan, it stuck in my mind.

Walking in, I was immediately struck by an air of sophistication but also an immensely cosy feel. With boxes and bags along its wall, the coffee here is freshly ground, and you choose the origin of your beans. If I didn’t have most of the city yet to explore, I easily could have whiled away more of the day here.

 

Groot Begijnhof

Removed from the centre of town but within walking distance is the enchanting historical beguinage of Groot Begijnhof. A beguinage is a housing complex formed to house beguines, women who chose to dedicate their lives to their religion without taking vows. It’s similar in concept to a convent, except with fewer restrictions.

Beguinages were for women who didn’t want to submit to a particular religious order and wanted to remain part of society. The region of Flanders is known to possess some extremely beautiful beguinages and the Groot Begijnhof is one of its finest. Walking around the Groot Begijnhof is an absolute must when you visit Leuven.

The Groot Begijnhof of Leuven is so large that it feels more like its own little district of the city.

But it also feels incredibly distinct from the rest of the city, probably explaining why it was added to UNESCO’s World Heritage List. After reaching the begijnhof, I strolled through some gardens before finding the wonderfully quaint residential streets, all lined with traditional brick houses.

Here and there, you could spot small canals calmly winding through and alongside the sweet old beguinage. I’d say the Groot Begijnhof is quite a romantic spot, which is funny considering its original purpose.

Definitely don’t miss this beautiful attraction when you visit Leuven.

 

Klein Begijnhof

By no means as large or as isolated as the Groot Begijnhof, the Klein Begijnhof is the other beguinage of Leuven.

Resting on the opposite side of town, the Klein Begijnhof is no less interesting because of its smaller size. In fact, it’s quite nice seeing the considerable differences between the two beguinages as you explore the city.

While the Groot Begijnhof feels like an idyllic district hidden away, the Klein Begijnhof feels like a working-class neighbourhood. Here, humble white-washed houses replace the ever-present tall red brick buildings, giving it a totally different look.

There’s a far more blue-collar atmosphere to the smaller beguinage than its larger counterpart. And yet, it’s still quite pretty.

 

The Vaartkom

One recommendation for my visit that piqued my interest was wandering the streets around Leuven’s Vaartkom. The Vaart is the large historic canal that joins Leuven with the next city to the north, Mechelen.

Where the Vaart ends in Leuven, you’ll find Vaartkom, an industrial area going through a process of urban renewal. On one side of the small harbour, you can see shiny, brand new apartments. Over on the other side, old rundown industrial buildings.

The reason for the state of the Vaartkom is the relocation of traditional industry that once called the area home, including timber yards and breweries. Given how landlocked Leuven is, the town had to rely on the region’s famous canals to strengthen its industry.

That need has obviously faded since the industrial age, leading Leuven to adapt to meet modern needs. I’m definitely curious to see what the area looks like in a few years.

 

Touring the Stella Artois Brewery

When it comes to Belgian beer, there are seemingly unending choices to pick from. But perhaps the most well-known Belgian beer around the world is Stella Artois.

And the home of Stella Artois? It’s Leuven.

Just by the Vaart, you’ll find the Stella Artois Brewery, where you can take a tour of the facilities, learn about the brewing process, and of course, have a glass of beer or two.

The Stella Artois Brewery runs tours on Saturdays and Sundays at 3pm, and they take a bit under 2 hours. Entry costs 8.5€, with information here. To get an idea of what the tour is like, though, check out my detailed post on my tour of the Stella Artois Brewery.

 

Getting tourist information

If you’re looking for somewhere to start, then you can’t go past the city’s tourist information centre. From the city’s Tourist Information Centre just off Grote Markt, you can gather plenty of information, including self-guided tours featuring different themes of the city, like landmarks, churches, and beer.

Through their small brochures or their app, you can learn about what there is to see and make the most of your visit. I found the self-guided tours really useful to give my exploration some direction.

 

Travel tips for visiting Leuven

• Unfortunately, during my time in Leuven, I missed Arenberg Castle and Park Abbey, the latter of which was undergoing massive renovations.
• As I only visited for one day, I had to choose between various tours starting at 3pm: the Town Hall tour or the Stella Artois Brewery Tour.
• When it comes to getting to Leuven from Brussels, the city is only a 30-minute train ride and even less from Brussels Airport.
• However, if you do decide to stay in the city itself, you will find a decent range of options for places to stay in Leuven.

 

---

Have you heard of the university city of Leuven, Belgium, before? Does this blog post make you want to visit Leuven? Please share your thoughts in the comments below.

*Disclosure: I received free tickets from Visit Leuven to the University Library and Tower, the Treasury of St Pieters Church and the Stella Artois Brewery Tour. As always, my opinions are my own.

 

This article is now available as a mobile app. Go to GPSmyCity to download the app for GPS-assisted travel directions to the attractions featured in this article.