The Few Sights to See Around Peja, Kosovo

Of all the places in Kosovo to spend your time, it might seem strange that the place we spent the most time in was the region around Peja. This city in Kosovo’s west is not exactly a well-known destination, even compared to Pristina and Prizren. But you see, Peja is a gateway to some of the most interesting sights and attractions Kosovo has to offer. To see the sights around Peja are reason enough to visit, let alone the city itself.

During our time there, we really only spent evenings in the city because during the day we were busy seeing one surprising sight after another. What follows is a rundown of the incredible sights around Peja that you’ll want to visit. If you didn’t already plan to visit, hopefully this will show you why you should.

The City of Peja

Peja, or Peje as it’s commonly written, isn’t a city without its charms. Mountains loom over the city creating quite a moody backdrop and there’s a relaxed feel that’s nice here. The truth is though that there just isn’t all that much to see around the city. Tourists will no doubt enjoy a walk through the city’s renovated bazaar and there is the odd museum here and there. Beyond that, there’s not much, at least from what we could find.

Where Peja did surprise us was with its food scene. Food in Kosovo was usually pretty good, but Peja is right up there with Pristina in terms of quality. Two restaurants we tried that left a distinctly good impression were Art Design and Kulla e Zenel Beut.

Besides the excellent service and food, what was interesting about Kulla e Zenel Beut was learning about kulla in general. Found across the former Ottoman Empire, kulla were basically fortified family homes and there are several in Peja you can see.

Patriarchate of Peja

Situated just outside the centre of the city, lies the ancient and important religious landmark of the Patriarchate of Peć Monastery. This medieval Serbian Orthodox Monastery dates from the 13th century and is part of the “Medieval Monuments in Kosovo” UNESCO World Heritage site. Even though it meant walking out there during an oppressive rain shower, this was a location attraction we knew we couldn’t miss.

Before we go any further, it’s important to identify that this is one of the most contentious landmarks in Kosovo.  If it’s not clear why, it’s a revered and historic Serbian Orthodox site in Kosovo. Together with the other Medieval Monuments in Kosovo, each of which are important holy landmarks, this monastery is an inciting factor in the current territorial disagreement.

All of which is why you when you visit the Patriarchate of Peć Monastery, you must first pass through a UN Peacekeeping checkpoint. There, they inspect your passport which you need to bring, and then you’re allowed to visit. That unfamiliar experience coupled with the unending rain, overshadowed much of the visit.

Within the monastery grounds there were some ruins and gardens, but the main draw is the the three-combined churches that are covered inside with frescoes. Seeing these incredible and comprehensive frescoes is sure to be the highlight of a visit here. I only wish visitors were allowed to take photos inside to show you how colourful they are.

Rugova Valley

The main reason for spending as long in Peja as we did was Kosovo’s Rugova Valley. Running from just near Peja up to the borders of Montenegro and Albania, the Rugova Valley is the premium hiking destination in Kosovo. You’ll have to wait for me to finally write up my experience there, but the short version is that the region is magical.

Hiking trails in the area cover several legs of the popular Peaks of the Balkans hiking route. These trails run a loop through Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro and cross mountains, forests, alpine fields and rural areas. Not having two weeks to hike, we decided on an abridged version of the Kosovo route. Even with three days we saw some incredible scenery, including the views from Mount Hajla.

But even if you only had a day to explore a tiny bit of the Rugova Valley, it would be worth it. Hiking in the area around Drelaj or Kuqishtë would at least give you a glimpse of this area’s beauty.

White Drin Waterfall

If you’re somewhere that’s not heavily written about, it often pays to just look at a map. That was how we learned about the White Drin Waterfall after all. Found just outside the village of Radac to the north of Peja, the waterfall seemed too close to ignore.

Starting at the Resort Ujevara e Drinit there is a little trail along a stream leading up to the waterfall. Along the way, you’re treated to gentle forest scenery and the occasional pretty cascade. It doesn’t take too long to reach the White Drin Waterfall, with the trail taking you up to the top.

What was really surprising was how there really wasn’t another soul in sight the entire time we visited. Perhaps that was because it was early on a week day, because even the local stall vendors were closed, with just one guy setting up. Considering how peaceful and scenic the waterfall is, I can only imagine it must get busier at some point.

Radaci Cave

If you do visit the White Drin Waterfall, don’t turn around once you’ve seen it. That’s because further up the hill the Radaci Cave awaits. We didn’t even know about the cave before coming to the waterfall, but the signposts there to the cave sure caught out eye. Since we were already there, we figured, why not visit there too?

On approach the Radaci Cave reminded me of the Bacho Kiro cave in Bulgaria, with just a simple kiosk at its entrance. Inside were two students seemingly waiting for someone, anyone to show up. Upon paying 2€ each, one student gave us a private tour of the caves, revealing the cave’s history and pointing out its interesting formations.

While the light inside wasn’t great for photos, there are some limestone terrace formations there quite worth seeing. The tour probably only lasted 20 minutes or so, which was perfectly fine for me and my claustrophobia. Even still, the Radaci Cave was another unexpected natural attraction around Peja that was worth visiting.

Decani Monastery

Considerably further from Peja than others here, the Decani Monastery is nevertheless a major attraction in this part of Kosovo. Much like the Patriarchate of Peja, Decani Monastery is another part of the UNESCO-protected Medieval Monuments in Kosovo. During the 14th century, the King of Serbia founded the Visoki Dečani monastery and it has since been considered a major religious and historical landmark.

That said, the experience of visiting the Decani Monastery was quite different than at Peja Monastery. Security here was far greater due to serious incidents in the past that risked the preservation of the monastery. When we arrived, we were made to wait in a group outside with the UN peacekeepers. Oddly though, the Serbian visitors were first let in and guided about. Then a little later, the rest of were permitted to enter without a guide.

After a little wandering around the grounds, we made our way inside the main church there. There we had the chance to meet one of the monks who told us a little about the monastery. While the exterior of the church looks clearly renovated, inside you get a better sense of the church’s original look. Afterwards, we went over to the store and met what must be the merriest monk around, who was keen for us to sample the wine the monks produce to support the monastery.

Travel Tips for Visiting Peja

At this point, you should better understand what your options are for sightseeing around Peja. That just leaves the logistics of where to stay and how to reach the places mentioned. We stayed at the Guesthouse Stone Bridge and it was exactly what we need, with modern rooms and helpful staff.

Getting to Peja when in Kosovo isn’t hard either. There are regular buses from both Pristina and Prizren, plus plenty from Gjakova as well. It’s worth noting that the Peja Bus Station is about a kilometre from the city centre, so expect a walk.

You’ll also find buses to each of these destinations around Peja there, even the special Rugova Valley shuttle. Most, like the Decani Monastery and White Drin Waterfall, will require a bit of a walk from the bus stop. It’s possible to visit some of these attractions with this guided tour.

Have you heard of Peja or any of these sights that surround it? Which Peja attraction most interests you? Please share your thoughts in the comments below.

This article is now available as a mobile app. Go to GPSmyCity to download the app for GPS-assisted travel directions to the attractions featured in this article.