The Blissful Countryside of the Klodzko Valley, Poland

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Poland is a great wide country, bursting with destinations to offer visitors. Cities like Warsaw, Krakow and even Wroclaw are all dynamic destinations, brimming with interesting attractions. The country’s more rural and natural side receives far less acclaim, however. Indeed, possibly one of the best-kept secrets of Poland travel destinations is the blissful Klodzko Valley in the country’s south.

Wedged up against the Czech border the Klodzko Valley is in the region of Lower Silesia. The valley and Klodzko County are defined by serene rolling countryside and quiet mountain forests. On top of that, the valley is home to a wide variety of historical, cultural and natural attractions sure to keep visitors entertained for days. To give you an idea of what you can expect when visiting the Kłodzko Valley, here is a curated selection of the many attractions in this underrated pocket of Poland.

City of Klodzko

It only makes sense to start with the city that lends its name to the area. The city of Klodzko is the core to this corner of Poland as its largest urban centre and a key historic site. Once known in German as Glatz, Kłodzko has long been a strategic point on the road between Prague and Wroclaw. Following WWII, the city went through several hardships including landslides and economic struggles.

Recent years, however, appear to have been good to Klodzko. While unheard of in most circles, Kłodzko is a destination with more than a few tricks up its sleeve. Klodzko was once known as the “Little Prague” because of its grand, Gothic likeness to the Czech capital.

Indeed, the name starts to make sense as you cross St John’s Bridge and venture into the city’s heart. Lined with evocative statues, the Gothic bridge bears a strong resemblance to the Charles Bridge of Prague. Over the bridge, you soon find yourself surrounded by grand, high buildings as you reach the Main Square. In its centre lies the Klodzko Town Hall, whose monumental exterior surrounds its older Renaissance-era tower.

Certainly, the major attraction of Klodzko that’s hard to miss is the immense Kłodzko Fortress that overlooks the Old Town. A collection of high walls, bastions and extensive underground tunnels, the current fortress dates back to the 1700s.

The site of the fortress has been home to fortifications and strongholds since as far back as the 10th century and is the scene of countless battles, including the Thirty Years’ War. Visiting the fortress, you not only learn its history and explore its tunnels but also enjoy superb views over Klodzko.

Bystrzyca Kłodzka

South of Kłodzko, edging ever closer to the border, lies the small historic town of Bystrzyca Klodzka. Whereas Klodzko bears the hallmarks of the Age of Enlightenment, this walled town gives off a much stronger medieval vibe.

Certainly, the stone town walls that surround it are a big part of that. So then is the Wieza Wodna Gate, with the giant portcullis that hangs overhead as you pass through. Around the small town centre, you’ll find other segments of stone walls and towers, like the Baszta Rycerska or Knight’s Tower.

In the town centre, you’ll find the Main Square, home to an attractive trinity column and the simply styled Town Hall. One attraction of Bystrzyca Klodzka I unfortunately didn’t have time for was its Museum of Matches, which details the history of various sources of ignition. It might seem odd but it came recommended so give it a look.

The town owes its name to its location by the confluence of two rivers, the Nysa Kłodzka and the Bystrzyca. No surprise then that the sight that leaves an impression on visitors has to be the view of the entire town from just near this point. Looking along the Nysa Kłodzka River up at the rooftops behind the town walls makes for a spectacular view as you can see below.

Wambierzyce

Poland is a deeply religious and strongly Catholic country, so it’s no surprise that you’ll find several pilgrimage sites across the country. One such site just happens to be located in the Klodzko Valley – the Wambierzyce Basilica. Occasionally dubbed the “Silesian Jerusalem”, the immense church is found in the small town of Wambierzyce northwest of Klodzko.

Wambierzyce has been a pilgrimage destination for many centuries, well before the town became part of Poland. It’s said that the first chapel was built here in 1263 after a miracle occurred in the forest and mountains. The story goes that a blind man gained his sight back after praying at a statue of Mary placed here. A series of churches have been built and destroyed in Wambierzyce, with this Baroque basilica coming from the early 18th century.

It’s possible to visit inside the church, although I couldn’t really as there was a school group preparing for some sort of occasion. Besides the basilica, it’s possible to climb up staircases on the opposite hill past shrines, chapels and tombs. Well worth the view from up there I must say.

Stołowe Mountains National Park

Now, admittedly I only skirted the edge of this national park but what I saw left me sure that I needed to return. A valley needs mountains in the case of Klodzko County it’s the Table Mountains, also known in Polish as the Stołowe Mountains. The mountain range extends across into Czechia and the region of Adrspach Teplice and is defined by sheer mountain ledges. It’s also regarded as one of the best places to hike in Poland.

The closest I got to exploring this sizeable national park was riding/walking my bicycle up from Wambierzyce to the village of Studzienno. My visit took me through a gorgeous, but silent, forest as I climbed a rise right around Studzienno, before descending back into the countryside.

In hindsight, trying to tackle the hills here by bike was overly ambitious, but live and learn. I may have seen similar rock formations in Czechia, but I’m still disappointed I missed the apparent highlight – Szczeliniec Wielki. Next time!

Klodzko Valley Spa Towns

Besides the idyllic rolling fields and mountain forests, the Klodzko Valley is renowned for its restorative spa towns. These pretty spa resorts have for centuries attracted visitors with their mineral springs and health and relaxation centres. The most notable of these spa towns are Kudowa-Zdrój, Duszniki-Zdrój and Polanica-Zdrój. You may have guessed, but Zdroj translates as ‘spa’ in Polish.

Kudowa-Zdrój, right by the Czech border, is the largest of the spa towns and also one of the oldest in all of Europe. Its healing waters have been used since the 16th century to treat various ailments and the town’s grandeur is said to reflect that. The town is also home to a rather morbid attraction, the Chapel of Skulls, an ossuary of bones similar to that of Kutna Hora.

Again, to my misfortune, I wasn’t able to visit Kudowa-Zdrój or Duszniki-Zdrój. However, I was able to ride my way to Polanica-Zdrój and take in this delightful little town. While it may lack some of the colossal, lavish spa hotels, Polanica-Zdrój is rife with beautiful gardens and traditional houses. All you have to do here is stroll along its river and let its calm atmosphere wash over you. I could certainly see why people would come here to get away from it all.

Kamieniec Palace

Another recurring sight across the Klodzko Valley is historic mansions and palaces dotting the beautiful countryside. I actually think this might be the most interesting aspect of the entire region. In the Klodzko Valley alone, there are at least a dozen palaces and castles, let alone manor houses.

Often privately owned after years of state ownership, these historical gems come in all shapes, sizes and most crucially, condition. Years of neglect mean that many palaces are a far cry from the way they looked centuries ago.

The palaces often belonged to Prussian and German noble families during the 18th and 19th centuries, before the exodus of Germans after WWII. The uncertainty over whether the German families would return meant many palaces were left to the elements and vandals.

Today, many of these palaces have been bought so that their new owners can attempt to preserve this local heritage. I was fortunate enough to stay at one such palace, Palac Kamieniec during my time sightseeing around Klodzko County. Kamieniec Palace is an example of what can be achieved when considerable effort and resources go into rescuing these landmarks. It’s one of the few palaces in the region to have completed so much of its restoration.

Other Palaces of the Kłodzko Valley

Others aren’t as far along. For instance, there’s the case of Szalejow Dolny Castle seen above. This grand old building has mostly been left boarded up and sat there, waiting. The property, and especially the dignified family cemetery, is tended to by a local groundskeeper. But beyond that, it’s left to its own devices.

This isn’t the case for all of the region’s palaces. A nice example is Piszkowice Palace, just a few villages over from Kamieniec Palace. In recent years, the stately residence was purchased by a Polish-Australian couple who have been methodically renovating it. Even as work progresses, visitors can enjoy a guided tour of this centuries-old landmark.

Perhaps the most ambitious of current palace restorations though is Gorzanów Palace. Situated between Klodzko and Bystrzyca Klodzka, Gorzanów Palace is a restoration project of biblical proportions. This huge 16th-century Renaissance castle features over 100 rooms, spacious grounds, a grotto and even the remains of a brewery!

I was grateful to receive a tour of Gorzanów Palace even as work continued all around us. As pictured above, many of the rooms feature wooden painted wooden ceilings, often concealed behind false ceilings with elaborate stucco work. There are just so many layers of history here that it seems hard to know which layer to preserve.

As I understand it, the owner hopes to restore the building and use it as a performance venue as well as accommodation. Still a lot of work before that day I imagine though.

Visiting Klodzko County

With a wealth of destinations to visit, you’re going to want to allow at least a couple of days to explore this blissful region. To do that, it’s best to find somewhere local to base yourself. Given my experience, I’d certainly recommend staying at Kamieniec Palace, as it offers a great deal of comfort while also being quite close to many of these attractions. Of course, Klodzko, the spa towns and even the other local palaces are all options too.

As for getting about the valley, the best option for you is going to depend on your preferences and level of fitness. Cycling around is certainly an option since even someone as unfit as me was able to get to several spots by bike.

Alternatively, there are local trains that run from Klodzko to both Kudowa-Zdrój and Bystrzyca Klodzka. Supposedly, there are also local buses but never found any information about them. Of course, the best way to travel is by car, since driving will allow you to cover much more ground. I do think seeing the Klodzko Valley by car will be my approach next time I visit.

Have you ever heard of or visited the Klodzko Valley? What aspects of the Kłodzko Valley most appeal to you? Please share your thoughts in the comments below.

*Disclosure: My stay at Palac Kamieniec was as a complimentary guest of the hotel. As always, my opinions are completely and genuinely my own.