Discover the Jewish Heritage of Trebic in the Czech Republic

One thing I’ve noticed when visiting the Czech Republic is how well the country’s Jewish history has been preserved in places. I think Prague is a great example of that, but the town of Trebic in the country’s south is an even better one. Found in the historic region of Moravia, Trebic lies roughly halfway between Brno and Cesky Budejovice. Given how out of the way that is, no wonder Třebíč is an overlooked destination.

Still, if you take the time to visit Trebic, you’ll be rewarded with a scenic town with some great cultural significance. Třebíč is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list because of its legacy of coexistence. You see, it was the harmony reached between Trebic’s Jewish Quarter and the nearby Benedictine Monastery that makes the history of this place so fascinating.

hat’s more, the historic landmarks of the town have been well preserved, making it easier to experience this heritage today. So let’s take a look at Trebic and what you can see today in this town of heritage and coexistence.

Jewish Quarter of Trebic

There’s no place else to start with when talking about Trebic than with its Jewish Quarter. Lying on the north bank of the Jihlava River opposite the town centre, this is where the local Jewish population lived since the Middle Ages. Pressed up against the hillside, the streets running parallel to the river almost look like individual terraces.

Unlike the town centre, this part of the city is made up of fairly narrow streets, many only a single car’s width. That’s because, over the centuries, the Jewish population built smaller and smaller houses to accommodate the ever-increasing population. For centuries, the Christian and Jewish populations lived side by side in Třebíč. It wasn’t until 1726 that a series of decrees came into effect, turning the area into a ghetto.

These declarations restricted Jewish locals from living in the ghetto here, as well as how many families could live in the area.

Before this act, much of the Jewish population had already resided here, but it certainly broke the balance of cohabitation that had worked for years. Once these discriminatory measures were abolished in 1849, Jewish locals either relocated elsewhere in Trebic or to bigger cities like Vienna.

Even after the decline in population here, there’s still a great amount of Jewish history in Trebic. Walking its cobblestone streets, you can admire the homes and buildings here, most of which are in their original form.

It may well be one of the best-preserved Jewish Quarters in all of Europe. Sadly, there is no Jewish community in Trebic today because of the events of WWII and the Holocaust.

The Rear Synagogue

Although not a huge town of people, the Jewish Quarter of Trebic was quite densely populated. Somehow the neighbourhood managed to fit an awful lot in, from a school to a hospital, a brewery, a kosher slaughterhouse and even two synagogues.

If you’re going to visit anything in the Jewish Quarter, I recommend the Rear Synagogue. Attached to the city’s tourist information centre, it’s well worth your time.

Even though it’s the newest of the two synagogues in the Jewish Quarter, the Rear Synagogue still dates from 1669.

That was well before the discrimination laws that came in creating the Ghetto, showing that this neighbourhood had a big Jewish population before that point. With its Renaissance architecture, the outside may not look overly elaborate but it pays to go inside.

Today, the Rear Synagogue not only allows visitors to see the restored interior of the synagogue but also hosts a museum on the history of the Jewish Quarter and ghetto.

Inside the main hall, the walls are decorated with religious texts and at the back is a memorial to the victims of the Holocaust. In the exhibits, you can see old photographs of the area, as well as a recreation of the quarter in the year 1850.

Castle Trebic and St. Procopius Basilica

On this side of the river, the next major landmarks you should visit in Trebic is the town’s castle complex, home to the St. Procopius Basilica.

Reached from the Jewish Quarter by a series of staircases, minor roads and a tunnel, this certainly feels like the most monumental part of town. From the central courtyard, you find on one side the town castle that houses a regional museum and on the other St. Procopius Basilica.

It is on the site of the castle and church that Trebic’s Benedictine Monastery once stood, which is why the basilica is also inscribed on the UNESCO register.

Decked out in white, the castle exterior isn’t nearly as interesting as the basilica’s, thanks to its grand Romanesque architecture. Besides visiting inside, the castle gardens are a nice place for a stroll, while there is a small terrace behind the basilica with a nice viewpoint of town.

Trebic Old Town

Across the Jihlava River, you find the historic town centre of Trebic. Admittedly, there are only a few major points of interest among the buildings of this part of town. First of all is the city’s central point, Charles Square. Around the square are several quaint buildings, all done in the painted Renaissance style.

The most impressive is aptly named the “Painted House” and its position on the corner certainly draws your attention. However, there are only a handful of pretty houses, nowhere near as many as, say the delightful town of Telc.

The other landmark in the town centre that’s hard to miss is the City Tower off St Martins Church. Sticking out well above the rooftops of the town, this tower adds a lot to the town’s skyline. Unfortunately closed during my visit, I believe it’s possible to climb up and get some great views.

Hasskova Zahrada Park views

On the same side of the river as the Jewish Quarter but further east you’ll find a huge park on a hill. Not only does Hasskova Zahrada Park add to the scenery along the town’s riverfront but once you climb up to the top, you get some great views out over town, especially from the two main viewpoints.

One viewpoint is a modern lookout tower while the other is an open area near some stone tower remains. Both offer different but equally noteworthy views of Trebic’s attractive skyline. The views across to the castle and basilica are some of my favourites, as they show you the scale of that entire area.

Old Jewish Cemetery

Further from the centre of town behind the hill, you’ll find the last of the UNESCO sites, an old Jewish cemetery. Open to the public, this walled cemetery wears the weight of centuries on it.

At times plots are overgrown and headstones are askew, but still, there are over 4000 headstones found here. It’s said to be one of Central Europe’s best-preserved Jewish cemeteries and well worth a visit for the atmosphere alone.

Visiting Trebic in the Czech Republic

Near the city of Jihlava and sitting on the route between Brno, Telc and Ceske Budejovice, you have a few options for getting to Trebic. Coming from Brno, there are regular train connections, although the train station is up a steep hill above town.

The alternative is to go by bus which works well for heading to Telc or Ceske Budejovice, although there are only a couple of buses a day. Working out the bus timetables online can be a pain so just go to the bus station in town and ask.

Despite the small size of Trebic, there’s a nice range of accommodation available to visitors, including several nice-looking hotels. In terms of affordability, Penzion Vis a Vis was alright, although it felt more like a boarding house than anything else. As for places to eat, Vinohrádek nad Babou had a pretty nice vibe and good food despite its distance from town.

Have you heard of the town of Trebic before? Does the Jewish Quarter of Trebic interest you? Please share your thoughts in the comments below.

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