A Visual Guide on Things to Do in Szeged, Hungary

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For many travellers, Hungary is often a mystery once you look beyond Budapest. But turn your eye south near the borders of Serbia and Romania, and you’ll find one of Hungary’s most endearing destinations, the city of Szeged.

When visiting Szeged, you can expect cheerful architecture and a lively student atmosphere. If you’re considering making the trip, here are the main things to do in Szeged, Hungary.

 

Is Szeged in Hungary worth visiting?

Yes, I think it is worth visiting Szeged if you’re looking to experience more of Hungary.

Szeged may not be as flashy as Budapest or seem as historically rich, but it does have some beautiful landmarks and more than a few interesting stories from its past.

I mean, did you know it has the dubious honor of holding witch trials between 1728 and 1744, way later than in most parts of Europe?

Much of what makes Szeged interesting now stems from a local boom in the early 20th century and its established student atmosphere.

Once you see some of the Szeged attractions below, you’ll understand why I think it’s definitely worth seeing for yourself.

 

Getting to Szeged

Before we can focus on what to do in Szeged, you first need to get there.

As it’s a major city in Hungary, Szeged is reasonably well-connected by public transport. That is, if you’re coming from Budapest. Other destinations in Hungary, such as Lake Balaton or Debrecen, are less direct.

Regular trains run down from Budapest and across the border from Serbia. The train station is roughly a kilometre from the city centre.

You should also check bus schedules to Szeged to see what’s available and/or cheaper. Expect to find a wider variety of bus connections, both for local and international routes.

 

Where to stay in Szeged

Szeged is the third-largest city in Hungary, so you can expect a wide range of places to stay.

For my stay in Szeged, I opted for the Garden 39 Vendégház Guesthouse. While it’s simple and a little removed from the city centre, it’s budget-friendly and the family there were so friendly and welcoming. I found it easy to make myself feel at home here.

Of course, there are plenty of other options available for every sort of traveller visiting Szeged, with some of the top-rated being:

• Novotel Szeged
• Kata Panzió
• Art Hotel Szeged
• Hotel Auris

 

What to do in Szeged

If you’re thinking of visiting Szeged, you’ll want to know about some attractions to get your sightseeing started.

I won’t claim to have done or seen everything in Szeged, but I did spend a couple of days sightseeing and definitely covered the highlights. These are the first things to do in Szeged after your arrival.

 

The Votive Church

The most obvious place to start is the Votive Church, Szeged’s most famous attraction.

Also known as the Szeged Cathedral, this twin-towered building is made from a striking mix of brick and marble and decorated with icons across its facade. This gorgeous landmark is best viewed from directly in front while standing in the Dom Square.

Now, I was really unlucky during my visit, as the Dom Square, the largest in the city, was out of commission. Local event coordinators were in the middle of constructing a large outdoor theatre in the square. So, if you visit in the middle of summer, you may encounter this yourself.

This construction limited access, so I missed out on the big frontal photo you often see online. The best I managed was an up-close view from the cathedral steps, wedged up against the theatre scaffolding.

This construction also limited my exploration of the Dom Square. I was able to admire the outer arcades around the square, lined with busts of Hungarian figures.

However, it also meant that I couldn’t clearly see the Dömötör Tower, Szeged’s oldest building. You can go inside the tower, but only with guided tours.

Safe to say, I’d love to try visiting Szeged again to see everything properly.

 

Szeged City Hall

After seeing the cathedral, the next best thing to do in Szeged is find the vibrant City Hall.

With its distinctive yellow and green colour scheme and exceptional tiled roof, the building is very typical for this corner of Europe. Rebuilt after the flood of 1879, the City Hall was even unveiled by then Emperor Franz Joseph in 1883. In the centre of the building’s facade sits a phoenix, emblematic of Szeged’s renewal.

If you’ve seen the city hall in Bratislava, you might see some similarities.

While I only saw the building from the outside, you can book a tour to see what it’s like inside. Apparently, it even has its own Bridge of Sighs, like the one in Venice.

 

Szechenyi Square

Directly across from the City Hall is the lovely park of Szechenyi Square.

A delightful public space with big shady trees, the square has everything from fountains to various intriguing statues. This is one space where a Szeged walking tour would be very valuable, so that you could learn about the people immortalized through its sculptures.

One of the nice things about Szeged is that there are many green spaces and avenues lined with large trees. You never feel like you’re trapped in a dense urban space.

 

Klauzal Square

Working your way further into the heart of the city centre to another main square, this time the confined Klauzal Square.

Surrounded by stately buildings, Klauzal Square is a crossroads of sorts for some of Szeged’s main pedestrian streets. This makes the square the nexus for Szeged’s cafe and restaurant scene, and a good place to head if you’re peckish.

The square is also home to the Millennium Fountain, featuring four winged lions protecting a royal orb.

 

Dugonics Square

Yet another square serves as an important corner of the Szeged city centre—this time Dugonics Square.

This square offers another beautiful park that is again lined with beautiful buildings, many of them related to local government and the city’s university. The Unger–Mayer House on the corner is one particularly notable and grand building.

Speaking of Szeged’s architecture, it’s worth taking a moment here to talk about it.

Countless beautiful Art Nouveau buildings grace the streets and squares of Szeged. They’re the result of rebuilding, spurred on by Emperor Franz Joseph, after a brutal flood in 1879.

This side of Szeged instantly reminded me of Oradea in Romania, another border city with a great heritage of Art Nouveau architecture. It’s one of my favourite things about Szeged, and I think searching for the striking local architecture is one of the best things to do in Szeged, best done on foot or by bike, because of all the pedestrian streets.

 

Art Nouveau palaces

Let’s take a break from squares for a moment, shall we?

We’ve already established that you can find all sorts of architectural gems throughout the city centre of Szeged. What I didn’t mention is that some of these buildings are residential palaces from the turn of the 20th century.

One such noteworthy building, just off Dugonics Square, is the Reök Palace, seen above. This elaborate Art Nouveau palace was built in 1907, incorporating water lilies into its overall water-themed design. Its motif makes me think of some of the Gaudí buildings in Barcelona.

A fellow art nouveau gem of the Hungarian Secession style is the resplendent Grof Palace on the far side of the city centre. Built in 1913, the palace sits on a corner, allowing you to admire its lavish design from all sides. Pity about the tram lines invading every photo angle, but they have no hope of ruining the view.

Again, with so many beautiful palaces to see, it’s worth considering a local walking tour that takes you to all these spots.

 

Szeged Water Tower

Although it’s not especially important, a site that surprised me was the Szent Istvan Water Tower.

This particularly unusual landmark is near Grof Palace, and despite being a great big concrete tower, there’s something to be said for its pleasant design. It feels a little Wes Anderson, no?

Another addition of the early 20th century, I only later learned that there is a viewing deck at the top. It’s only open in the warmer months; entry to the tower is 1,500 HUF.

 

Heroes’ Gate

Situated just off Aradi vértanúk Square, one of the city’s landmarks truly doesn’t mesh with Szeged’s normal aesthetic. And that’s the Heroes’ Gate.

Seemingly carved out of a building, the gate bears all the hallmarks of a Soviet-era memorial, except for its religious iconography.

While it may not fit in stylistically, this monument to the soldiers who died in World War I is worth visiting for the vivid illustrations that adorn the underside of the arches.

I honestly didn’t know what to make of it, but I think different is almost always interesting.

 

Várkert Park / Stefánia

Before you reach the banks of the Tisza River, you first reach Várkert Park.

Locals know this riverfront promenade as Stefánia, and it’s full of local landmarks to admire and explore.

In the general vicinity of the park, you’ll find more elegant buildings in a mix of architectural styles. For instance, the Deutsche Palace one street over is another fantastic Art Nouveau building that is quite different from many of its immediate neighbors.

A little further along the edge of the park, you’ll also find the city’s National Theatre. This building really reminds me of the Volkstheatre in Vienna, albeit in the region’s distinct pale yellow.

I didn’t venture inside, but I now wish I had, as I’m curious about what the interior is like.

The main park landmark is the Ferenc Móra Museum, a big natural history museum that would look at home in any big European capital city. It’s a popular attraction for families, but also if you want to enjoy its rooftop views of the riverfront.

 

The Tisza Riverfront

Last but not least, the Tisza River is a defining feature of the city of Szeged as it flows by it.

The river’s languid waters and green banks are surprisingly low-key and quiet compared with similar spots in other European cities. I made my way there to recreate a cityscape photo I had seen but never quite worked out the angle.

Regardless, it’s a nice place to watch the sunset over the city and cap off one day in Szeged.

 

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Have you had the chance to visit Szeged, Hungary before, and if not, has this article swayed you? Have a suggestion of other destinations in Hungary that deserve more attention? Please share your thoughts in the comments below.

This article is now available as a mobile app. Go to GPSmyCity to download the app for GPS-assisted travel directions to the attractions featured in this article.