What it’s like Visiting Plitvice Lakes in Winter

Disclosure: This post (probably) contains affiliate links. If you click on one, I may make a small commission. Of course, this will come at no extra cost to you and helps keep this site running.

There’s little doubt that Plitvice Lakes National Park is one of Croatia’s greatest attractions. If you enjoy looking at travel photos online or on social media, you’ve undoubtedly seen plenty of this perennial favourite and its majestic waterfalls. On my latest visit to Croatia I knew it was about time that I took the opportunity to see this natural beauty with my own eyes. The only question I had was whether it was worth visiting Plitvice Lakes in winter.

That’s one of the predicaments of travelling to places like Croatia in the off-season. Even though it may be your only chance to see a place, will it be worth your time and money to go at such an unusual time? After all, there’s lots to consider from access and the availability of facilities to whether a place will still be impressive out of its natural element. So if you’re wondering what it’s like visiting Plitvice Lakes in winter, allow my experience to guide whether going is right for you.

Access to Plitvice Lakes National Park

Let’s start with what is possibly the most crucial details of any winter visit to Plitvice Lakes – entry and access. But before we do, rest at ease knowing that the Plitvice Lakes are open to the public during winter. That being said, the National Park is at a reduced capacity which means you won’t quite enjoy the complete park experience available in summer, autumn and spring. By the way the park defines winter as from the last Sunday in October to the last Sunday in March.

First of all, only Entrance 1 operates during winter, so make sure to park or get off the bus there. More disappointingly, the upper parts of Plitvice Lakes are typically closed to the public. This also means that the boat and panorama train that the park provides for your convenience no longer cover their full routes.

So that you can see where I mean, look at this park map. The boat stop P2 and bus stop St3 are both closed in winter and the trails to the south and west are inaccessible. What’s left to visit are programs A and B of the Plitvice Lakes walking routes.

So, Is it Still Worth Going?

The idea that almost half the park is off-limits to you is probably pretty disheartening, right? I have to admit it was for me too. But trust me, a visit in winter is not a waste. You still get to see half of a magical national park, and it will make you super eager to return to see the rest. What’s more, if you’re lucky like me you get to see the lakes and waterfalls of Plitvice in a way that few people can imagine. What do I mean by that?

Enchanting Snowy Plitvice Lakes

Normally, the beauty of Plitvice Lakes is watching the crystal clear water of the lakes trickle over waterfalls that link up the terraces of lakes through the canyon. You’re treated to the aquamarine colour of the water and the bright green vegetation of plants and trees that line each terrace. That’s the magical spectacle you can enjoy during the peak season of summer.

In winter though the colour palette of Plitvice Lakes is totally transformed, as green is replaced by the purest white you’ve seen. The national park is situated a ways in land near mountains, so it’s not uncommon in winter for snow to fall there. My visit was around a week after a massive snowstorm swept across Europe and the sight I arrived to could only be described as a winter wonderland.

From the very first viewpoint, I was awestruck by the park’s spectacular views. With the snowfall starting to melt, the waterfalls of Plitvice Lakes, much like the waterfalls at Rastoke, were in overdrive. Plus, with the fresh white snow everywhere, the colour of the lakes couldn’t be brighter.

Winter really takes a grip on Plitvice Lakes and it can have some staggering effects. Take Veliki Slap, the big waterfall, for example. While the waterfall was pouring as usual, the grounds and view-point at its base looked like something out of Frozen. Everything and I mean everything was frozen solid and white, taking on a slightly sinister vibe in the shadow of the canyon.

Walking Trails of Plitvice Lakes

Not that visiting after such a huge snowstorm didn’t have its problems. For starters, the boardwalks were either partly or fully covered in firm icy snow. This meant either carefully tiptoeing along the cleared parts or taking things super slowly atop the icy snow bank. Things only got worse a little further up, where the accumulated snow was so high that it was probably taller than I am. This completely blocked the path along the lake, forcing you to head up into the forest to detour around it.

Making your way along the forest trails weren’t all that great either. Often alternating between ice and slush, you did have to watch your step, especially on downward sloping sections. The upside is that you’re walking through a forest blanketed in snow, which in itself is quite scenic.

Then you arrive at a new viewpoint looking down at the Lower Lakes and you’re truly spoiled. I have to say that the inevitable walk back down to the lakes felt pretty dicey, but that’s the usual feeling for Australians on snow.

A Chilly Boat Ride

The largest of the 16 lakes that make up the national park is Lake Kozjak, the lowest of the Upper Lakes. It’s here, once you’ve crossed the bridge to the far side, that you embark on a boat ride across the lake. Viewing Plitvice from the water allows the park to take on a whole new feel as you look up at the park around you. It was also quite atmospheric since the lake was frozen over in certain areas, the rest a dark and ominous blue.

Unfortunately the boat ride was also my best chance to see the waterfalls and trails that lead up into the Upper Lakes. It was almost cruel the way the off-limits were dangled in front of visitors, knowing we couldn’t visit. Still, there’s little doubt I’ll come back to see the rest of Plitvice Lakes. After all, there’s still eleven lakes I haven’t seen and I imagine autumn would be quite special too.

Visiting Plitvice Lakes in Winter

There’s some things you should keep in mind when visiting Plitvice Lakes in winter. First of all, it’s bound to be cold so rug up. Not usually a sentence you hear when talking travel in Croatia. Also, with snow and ice, really consider your footwear and go for something with good tread. Otherwise you might find yourself slipping into an icy lake. Secondly, bring food with you as you could be there for a while and your options are slim in winter.

Where to Stay at Plitvice Lakes

The one disadvantage to visiting Plitvice in winter that I haven’t touched on yet is accommodation. Although there are a number of guesthouses around Plitvica Selo, apparently only the great big Hotel Jezero is open during winter. So if you want to stay at the national park itself, that’s your one choice.

Thing is though, in winter there’s no real reason why you need to stay close by. You won’t be spending more than a day there with the reduced access. Therefore, staying elsewhere is perfectly fine. My vote would definitely be for the village of Slunj to the park’s north.

With Slunj you’ve got facilities like supermarkets and cafes, plus the sights of Slunj itself like Rastoke. I can’t recommend Apartment Tomašević highly enough, from the super friendly hosts to the spacious apartment. I mean, I had three bedrooms and a massive dining area to myself, for less than some shoeboxes I’ve stayed in.

Getting to Plitvice National Park

The other perk of not staying in the national park is that it’s quite a manageable day trip. Unquestionably, renting a car and driving yourself is the ideal way to go. No waiting around and the freedom to explore other places nearby too.

But if for whatever reason you don’t want to, you can take the semi-frequent bus that connects Plitvice Lakes to Zagreb, stopping in Slunj too. While it’s only 30 minutes from Slunj, the bus ride is 2.5 hours from Zagreb making it also manageable. Timetables can be found here.

Your other option of course is to go with a tour. Not all tour companies operate during winter, but this is one tour that does.

Have you had the pleasure of exploring Plitvice Lakes, Croatia? Would you visit a National Park in winter if it meant missing out on some parts? Please share your thoughts and questions in the comments below.