A Few Enchanting Sights to See in Viljandi, Estonia

An easy mistake to make when visiting Estonia is to cling to the country’s extensive coastline. After all, the Baltic coast is home to some major destinations, not least the capital Tallinn. But each time I’ve ventured inland in Estonia, I’ve been delighted with what I’ve found. Case in point, is the historic and green town of Viljandi, my most recent foray inland. Just look at the gorgeous sights to see in Viljandi and you’ll see why it’s wise to add towns like it to your itinerary.

Viljandi is a real tourist town, but I mean that in the best possible way.  There are things to see and experience around every corner here and many of the things to do in Viljandi seem to appeal to domestic tourists just as much as international visitors. It has a balanced, well-rounded feel to it that makes visiting easy and comfortable. To show you why I think you can’t miss this little Baltic gem, I thought I’d take you on a loose walking tour of Viljandi.

About Viljandi

Viljandi is a medium-sized town near the heart of Estonia and sits almost halfway between the cities of Pärnu and Tartu. It’s a place with a generous history to its name, but also loads of green spaces, making it an easy place to like as a tourist. In that sense, it bares a lot of  similarities with Sigulda in Latvia, another Baltic destination I’m very fond of.

But the biggest connection between Viljandi and Sigulda is that both are tightly connected to the Livonian Order of knights. It’s thanks to this order of “warrior monks” that the town was fortified and began to prosper in the 13th century. Viljandi earned town’s rights in 1283.

The other reason Viljandi is interesting is that it was one of just five towns in modern Estonia to be a member of the Hanseatic League. This is noteworthy as the others all sat on the coast or on major waterways and Viljandi is way inland.  What made Viljandi special was its convenient position on regional medieval trade routes. Sadly, centuries of war in the Baltic led to the decline of the town and much of its destruction.

With that background explained, let’s look at modern day Viljandi and what to do there now.

Walk Around the Old Town Centre

The best place to start a visit to Viljandi is with its small town centre. Walking around the historic parts of Viljandi really won’t take you too long, but it’s well worth doing. You’ll find cobblestone streets throughout and a charming assortment of brick and wood-panel houses along then. Viljandi has the same “frontier” feel I’ve described for other Baltic destinations, but feels somehow greener and quieter than the others.

Tallinna is the main street through the town centre, but I’d argue that Lossi Street, Kauba Street and Pikk Street are Viljandi’s prettiest. Another spot to head to is the pleasant Garden of Arcadia, which has remains of the medieval town walls off a pedestrian path. I can’t speak to the area near Viljandi Manor as that part of town was undergoing massive public works at the time of my visit.

The Viljandi Old Water Tower

As you explore the town centre you’ll likely notice a strange sight poking above the town’s rooftops. That is the old Water Tower of Viljandi, a brick tower with a modern-looking observation room at the top of it. Head up to the top of the tower for views over Viljandi or stay on the ground and like me imagine a wizard living up there.

Jaani Church

The other towering landmark around Viljandi that will likely draw your attention is the city’s whitewashed Lutheran Church. Surrounded by pristine lawns and trees, the Jaani Church looks like it belongs out in the countryside somewhere. It was originally built in 1464 as part of the local Franciscan Monastery. However, war and the Soviet era left it a shadow of its former self until 1992 when like a lot of churches across the Baltic, it was able to be renovated.

Enjoy its Viewpoints

Heading over to the eastern and south-eastern edges of the town centre you’ll be met with quite a pleasant scene. It’s in these areas that you realise Viljandi is up on a hill and surrounded by lush greenery. Viljandi was actually dubbed the “Forest Capital City of Estonia” in 2009 and that’s saying something given its competition.

There are several viewpoints along the ridgeline connected by a gentle walking trail. Each has its own strengths but they all look out to Lake Viljandi and reinforce why the Baltic’s nature is one of its best features. One viewpoint even has a swing that was always occupied when I walked past.

Head Down to the Lake

Having spotted Lake Viljandi from on high, why not take a wander down to the water’s edge? The lake is actually famous nationwide as there is a romantic Estonian song about a boatman rowing on Lake Viljandi.

The best way to get there is down the stairs of Trepimägi, a historic stairway of 158 steps. Along the stairs you’ll spot some of the town’s grander villas and at the bottom sports fields, a leisure complex and even a beach. Even though I was there in late summer the lakefront area was rather empty, but summer is brief in this part of the world.

Explore the Castle Ruins

To me, and probably many visitors, the most interesting attraction in Viljandi is the town’s medieval fortress. The castle ruins are found at the southern end of town and are free to walk through and admire. They date from 1224 when the German Order of the Sword, later the Livonian Order, started construction.

For a time Viljandi Castle was the most important across Livonia and it prospered as a major trade hub. Like the town, it suffered from the region’s repeated wars and today is a collection of brick fragments. Walls stand here and there, not to mention the main gate, but the rest of the castle is in ruin. There are a few excavation pits that highlight the archaeological work done here, but in reality, the main purpose of the site now is as an atmospheric backdrop for open-air concerts and performances.

Walk Around Viljandi Castle Park

After you’ve seen the castle ruins, it’s time to take in the vast greenery of the park surrounding it. As far as I can tell the park area has no unifying name, but it basically stretches south and west of the ruins. Start with a trip across the Viljandi Suspension Bridge, a proud local icon that is more than 50 metres long. 

From there you’ll find a variety of paths to follow, including some through the intriguingly named Philosopher’s Alley. In terms of other landmarks, there are a few but the large Song Festival Arena stands out, highlighting the traditional importance of song in Estonia.

Travel Tips for Visiting Viljandi

Since Viljandi isn’t an especially well-known destination, I think it’s worth me offering advice on how to visit.

Let’s start with getting there, as that’s always important. The simplest way to get to Viljandi is from Tallinn, with a handful of train departures each day that make the 2 hour train trip. Otherwise, look at the bus connections with cities like Pärnu and Tartu. The downside of taking the train is that Viljandi train station is a fair way from the town centre. To get into town, it’s either a reasonable walk or you’ll need to take a local bus.

Then there’s the matter of staying in Viljandi. I went with the affordable option and stayed at Hostel Ingeri with no complaints. But there are other places to stay in Viljandi as well, if you want something a bit more comfortable. One perk about the hostel is that it’s right next to Tegelaste Tuba, a cheap and delicious tavern-like restaurant that I highly recommend.

Had you heard of the town of Viljandi in Estonia before? Does this green and historic destination interest you enough to add it to your next trip to Estonia? Please share your thoughts in the comments below.

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