A Failed Attempt to Visit Hluboka Castle, Czech Republic

Sometimes things just don’t go your way. It’s my own fault really. I’ve shared my fondness for Czech castles before, so it was no surprise I was keen to visit Hluboka Castle when I was nearby. A common day trip from Ceske Budejovice, Hluboka Castle is often touted as one of the Czech Republic’s most stunning castles. While I didn’t really succeed with my visit, I can confirm that this is one extraordinary attraction. If you’re travelling through the Czech Republic, you’re going to want to see the castle. Just don’t make the one mistake I did.

Background on Hluboka Castle

Before we get to my time there, I thought it would be good to fill you in on Hluboka Castle. Positioned over the town of Hluboká nad Vltavou in south Bohemia, this castle is a National Cultural Moment in the Czech Republic. While the castle was first built in the 13th century, it went through several expansions and reconstructions, each in a style of that time.

The look that it bears today was introduced in the 19th century with the royal Windsor Castle in England serving as inspiration. For much of its life, the castle was owned by the House of Schwarzenberg, a dynasty of nobles that lived in Germany and the Czech Republic.

How it Went Wrong

For a seasoned traveller like myself, opening hours really shouldn’t be as big a challenge as I seem to find them. One quick look in advance at a website or brochure should tell you everything you need to know. In my defence, I did read the brochure I collected at Ceske Budejovice.

My mistake was in confusing the opening hours of the Tourist Information Centre with that of Hluboka Castle. While the Tourist Information was closed on Sundays, the castle is closed on Mondays for most of the year. Guess which day I went.

It wasn’t until I arrived at the castle on Monday and approached its big solid doors that I realised my simple mistake. What I was most annoyed about was that I could have gone the day before but thought it was closed. And so I missed my chance to tour the castle’s interior, see the residences, the library and the tower lookout.

What I Did See There

Honestly, though, my visit certainly wasn’t a waste. It turns out that Hluboka Castle can easily entertain visitors even if they don’t tour inside. Even just that first moment you arrive outside the castle from town is worth it for the sight of this romantic chateau.

As soon as you arrive you see this fairytale castle and the hedge gardens that sit out in front and alongside. Then there’s the picturesque greenhouse area off to the side which would likely be charming on its own.

On approaching the doors for the second time, I was in for two surprises. First was the incredibly awesome door handle that I finally noticed. I don’t think I’ve ever seen such a vivid and surreal door handle before, especially not one this expertly crafted.

But the other surprise was that the door to the castle was sitting wide open and so I went inside to ask if the castle was really closed. When I realised how dead quiet it was I got my answer, but at least I had the opportunity to take a look at the delicate details of the castle’s inner courtyards.

Other than that, I made sure to do a lap through the grounds which is a must. From the elegant hedge gardens to the park out the back, it’s a very pleasant place to be. You also get to see the chateau from different angles and appreciate just how stunning its architecture is.

Be sure to head around to the rear terrace with its balconies and ornate spiral staircases. It’s easy to imagine some sort of aristocratic party taking place up there.

Beyond the Castle

Surrounding the castle you’ll find a huge sprawling park that could have easily been the hunting grounds given its size. After the seeing chateau, it was nice to stroll through the light forest and down to the park’s little ponds. Go far enough and you’ll wind up at a road that brings you back to the town of Hluboká nad Vltavou.

The town itself is quite modest, only really taking up a few streets between the castle and the nearby lakes. The most noteworthy landmark in Hluboká nad Vltavou has to be the town’s church, although it’s likely to be the cafes and restaurants here that most tourists will be interested in.

I will say that the lakes around Hluboká nad Vltavou can be quite scenic. This part of South Bohemia is full of lakes and the town is nestled by two. The smaller is nice enough with its ducks and swans, but the larger one Municky Rybnik left quite an impression. Walking over to it, I began to notice ripples and then about every 5-10 seconds fish would jump from the water.

Visiting Hluboka Castle

Chances are if you’re visiting Hluboka Castle, you’ll be coming from the city of Ceske Budejovice. While it’s a super simple 15-minute drive from the city, you also have the convenient option of regular buses there. I just turned up at the bus station and asked where the next one would be from. Tickets as of 2017 cost 21czk and the bus stop in Hluboka nad Vltavou is on Nad Parkovištěm, leaving you less than a 10-minute walk to the castle.

If you’re wondering where to stay for your visit, I do suggest you stay in Ceske Budejovice. It’s a city with its own sights, hotels and restaurants making it a more useful base than the town. You can then stop in at Hluboka nad Vltavou on your way north to Tabor, Pilsen or Prague.

Would you make the trip to visit Hluboka Castle? Do you have a similar experience where you went somewhere important and found it closed? Please share your thoughts in the comments below.